…. From here indeed
Shall we strike terror in the Swede;
And here a city, by our labor
Founded, shall gall our haughty neighbor;
Thus declared Pushkin’s character in The Bronze Horseman, written in 1833 about the founding of the city of St. Petersburg by Peter the Great in 1703. The quote is indicative of the degree of suspicion and hostility that had plagued the Baltic since the 11th century.
By the end of the 12th century the Swedes were building a string of fortresses along their Baltic coast. Among these was the great round keep or “kastal” which became the nucleus of Kalmar Castle.
The castle was built on a promontory or holm (in Swedish “kalm”) and a similar tower was built on the island of Oland across the strait. Oland is now connected to the mainland by a six-kilometer (3.7 miles) long bridge – the longest in Europe.
The towers did not make the settlements in the area impervious to attack. The Icelandic bard Snorre Sturlason (1178-1241) who visited Sweden in 1219 tells of the Norwegian king Sigurd Jorsalfare who ravaged the “merchant town of Kalmar” in 1123, forcibly converting the inhabitants to Christianity and levying heavy taxes.
By the 16th century the castle was dilapidated and its defensive arrangements obsolete. Gustav Vasa (1496-1560) who became King of Sweden in 1523 immediately set about importing skilled craftsmen who equipped the castle with a strong outer system of ramparts with bastions at the corners.
The moat was widened, a new drawbridge was built and the buildings around the inner courtyard were strengthened. Gustav Vasa’s two elder sons, Erik (king 1560-69) and Johan 111 (king 1569-92) continued the rehabilitation of the castle. During their reigns the emphasis was placed on the adornment of the interior and Kalmar Castle became a Renaissance palace with costly decorations in the spirit of the age.
In August 1611 during the Kalmar War the town was razed to the ground and the castle surrendered to the Danes.
In March 1613 the Swedes regained possession of the castle and in 1629, following a visit to Kalmar, King Gustavus Adolphus began restoring the castle to its former glory. In 1647 the town was again razed – this time by fire – and it was decided to move the whole settlement away from the vicinity of the castle.
By the 18th century Swedish territory had expanded considerably to the south and Kalmar and its castle lost its pivotal importance as “the key to the kingdom”. This once splendid palace of imperial Sweden became successively a government warehouse, the country jail and  in the reign of Gustav 111 – a Crown distillery. The state apartments were used as granaries and most of the glorious decorations were destroyed.
In 1810 a local Bishop proposed the demolition of Kalmar Castle, but luckily there was a growing realization that this ancient monument was of great value and should be saved from destruction.
Restoration began in the 1850s, but due to lack of funds a fullblown renovation had to wait until 1919. When the work was completed in 1939 the castle was once again surrounded by its water-filled moat with drawbridge and the courtyard was painted with imitation freestone blocks as it had been at the end of the 16th century. Where possible the apartments were restored to their former Renaissance glory.
During the latest refurbishments, which were completed in 1980, a few new features were added including a 17th-century altarpiece replicated after the Flemish painter Cornelis de Vos (1584-1651) on loan from the National Gallery in Stockholm.
When in Kalmar, a visit to the Kalmar County Museum is essential, for here you’ll find a permanent exhibition of artifacts from the Royal Ship Kronan.
Built in Stockholm between 1665 and 1672 the Kronan was 60 meters (197ft) in length with a main mast measuring 50 meters (164ft) above the water line. Her estimated displacement was 2,140 metric tons. The armament consisted of 126 cannons on three decks. Almost twice as big as the Royal Ship Wasa, which sank in Stockholm harbor in 1628, the Kronan was then the third largest ship afloat.
On May 30th, 1676, the Kronan turned sharply in a strong gale to face her enemy the Danish-Dutch fleet in the waters between the mainland and the island of Oland. None of her sails had been taken in and when she was heaved over by the wind the sea gushed through the open gun ports on the lower deck. What was probably a broken lantern ignited the powder magazine and a tremendous explosion blew away the entire starboard side and part of the stern. The Kronan sank very quickly. Of the 842 on board only 42 survived.
Unlike the Wasa, the Kronan lay too deep – 26 meters (85ft) – for salvage at the time. The artifacts have been well preserved by the less corrosive brackish waters of the Baltic and furnish us with a remarkably accurate picture of life for the 17thcentury mariner. History indeed runs deep in Kalmar.
Bruce Burnett, has won four Pacific Asia Travel Association (PATA) Gold awards for travel journalism. Read more of Bruce Burnett’s writing on his websites:
1. globalramble.com/ globalramble.com/
2. bruceburnett.ca/ bruceburnett.ca/
3. herbalcuisine.com/ herbalcuisine.com/